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GUPP. i No. 443,696. Patented Deo. 30, 1890.

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Patented Dc. 30', 1890.

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UNrrnD STATES Fnraiur Ormea.

JAMES F. FELLOWS, OF TROY, NEV YORK.

CUFF.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No.y 443,696, dated December 30, 1890.

Application filed February 24, 1890. Serial No. 341,382. (No model.)

To all whom rit may concer/L:

Beit known that I, JAMES F. FELLoWs, a citizen of the United Slates,residingat Troy, county of Rensselaer, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Cuffs, of which the following is a specification.

My invent-ion relates to improvements in cuffs and like articles; and it consists of the novel construction and combination of parts hereinafter described and subsequently claimed.

Reference maybe had to the accompanying drawings and the letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Similar letters refer to similar parts in the several figures therein.

Figure l represents aplan View of the plies forming my improved cuff laid out flat, superimposed one upon another Wrong side out, and secured to the linen ply along one side edge by a continuous run-seam. Fig. 2 is a .similar View of the nished cuff turned right side out with the linen ply exposed to view. Fig. 3 is a vertical cross-section taken on the brokenl line 3 3 in Fig. l. Fig 4 is a similar section taken on the broken line 4 4, Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a similar section showing a modilication. Fig. 5 is avert-ical longitudinal section taken on the broken line 5 5 in Fig. 1. Fig. G is a similar section taken on the broken line()l 6 in Fig. l. Fig. 7 is a plan View of one end of the plies secured together by the run-seam andpartly turned, illustrating-the function of the slit in one of the narrow plies.

Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6 are somewhat exaggerated in size and proportion for convenience in illustration.

Cuffs are usually formed ot' three or more plies of fabric superimposed one upon another, which plies are secured to each other wrong side out by a run-seam inserted along the edge of the several plies all the Way round, except a short distance on one side. A short opening between the plies where the runseam is omitted is thus formed through which the plies are turned right side out. After being thus turned all the loose edges bounding the opening are folded in and the opening closed by a line of stitching along the edge of the cuff. It is obvious that turning the plies after they have been thus fastened together by the run-seam diminishes the supertlcial area of the plies inclosed by such seam and .narrows the collar or cuff on account of the folds formed about the seam when the plies are turned. It is equally obvious that the outer surface ply, which folds over the interlinings, Will have a larger fold than the fold of the interlinings and be more affected thereby, so that when the surface ply is stretched out smooth the interlinings will still be fulled up and present wrinkles when laundered. An unsightly edge was also presented in the finished article by the method of closing up the turning-out opening.

In my improved construction I am able to eliminate the defects above mentioned by uniting the plies with a continuous unbroken run-seam and leaving one side edge of the interlinings free, not being included in such seam, whereby all the plies easily adj ust themselves to their new relations when turned right side out.

A is the linen or wide outer face ply.

B is the lining or inner face ply.

C, D, and E are intermediate orinterlining plies. V The plies, cut in the desired form, are superimposed one upon another, as shown in Figs. l and 3.

The lining B is formed by doubling a ply upon itself to form a folded edge B', the loose edges B2 being laid upon one edge A of the outer'face ply and one edge of the interlining C being laid upon the opposite edge A2 of the outer face ply. Underlying the edge A is one edge of the interlining D, while underlying the opposite edge A2 of the linen ply is one edge of the interlining E. All the other plies are shown narrower than the outer face ply, and when the unbroken or continuous line of stitching d is inserted to form a runseam around the edge of the superimposed plies one edge of the narrow plies is left free and unsecured to any other ply. The plies are then turned from the position shown in Figs. l and 3 to that shown in Figs. 2 and 4, and a continuous line of stitching b inserted through the plies near the edge of the cuff, and also a central longitudinal line of stitching CZ along the foldededge B', which closes the turning=out opening.

rlhe interlining plies may be of varied IOO widths, though I prefer to make them of such a width that after the plies have been turned right side out the free edges of the interlinings which are unsecured by the run-seam will lap the turned-in edges of the run-seam formed in securing tothe wide or outer facing ply one of the adjacent narrow plies, as shown in plies C and D in Fig. i, in which position they will be caught and secured by the edge line of stitching b.

The ply E is shown narrower than the plies C and D to balance the narrow lining ply B, and their free edges of both pliesE and B are secured by the central line of stitching d.

The ends of the plies may be secured part Way across in the usual manner, the fullness of the intel-linings being s0 distributed along the length of cuffs, which length is considerable compared with the width, as not to develop such defects as are apparent when the plies are run together on both side edges before turning.

The ply C is included in the run-seam part way across its ends to the offset C', as shown in Fig. l, from which points it is shorter and narrower than the outer ply.

lVhen the plies are turned, the ends C2 preferably pass to the opposite side of and lap the turned-in edges of the other plies included in the run-seam, as shown in Fig. 7; but it will be seen in Fig. 7 that on the other side of the offset C the ply C passes overand incloses the edges of the runseam, which edges are indicated by dotted line e. It is necessary, therefore, to provide a slit C3 at the oifset to receive the turned-in edges of the run-seam and permit the ends C2 to pass to the opposite side of such edges, as shown in Fig. 7, which is the position naturally taken when the ply B is turned toinclose such edge and a portion of the ply l, as shown in Fig. 1. By careful manipulation in turning the ends C2 can be retained upon the same side of the seam edges which they occupied before turning, as shown in Fig. ein, in which case the slits might be dispensed with.

Vt'hen desired, the outer face ply may be re-enforced by an adjacent interlining ply of the saine size to be included on all sides in the run-seam.

Vhen desired, the center line of stitching cl may he omitted.

Although the above described improvement has been set forth and illustrated with reference to cuffs, it is not thereby intended to exclude other like articles embodying the same construction for a like purpose.

W'hat I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

As an improved article of manufacture, a cufl composed of an outer wide ply having an introverted edge, narrower plies having introverted edges, one or more adjacent to each side of each introverted side edge of the outer ply, stitches passing through all the introverted edges, one of the narrower plies overlapping the introverted stitched edges on the side opposite its introverted edge, and stitches passing through all the plies within the boundary of the stitches first named, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 19th day of February, 1890.

JAMES F. FELLOWS.

Tvltnesses:

'FRANK C. CURTIS,

HAs. L. ALBEN. 

